When I go shopping for something for my home I can be extremely picky. I have issues. I admit it. Issues like…“I can make that.”…”I can make that for less.”…”I can paint that.”…”I can make that cuter.” Does this sound like you? Do you like customizing your own home decor?
This shower curtain, made for Missy and her daughter Claire, is a prime example where custom can be so much cuter! Though, not always less expensive. Shower curtains require a lot of fabric.
I’m going to share with you how, with very simple sewing skills, you can make your own shower curtain. (Fabric measurements and details listed at end of post.)
The average tub length is 5′. I generally make the shower curtain 1.5 (fullness) x 60″ = 90″/finished width. This gives the curtain plenty of fullness when closed yet not too much bulk for a small space.
The length depends on where you choose to mount your rod and how far you’d like the curtain to hang above the floor.
This fabric is 54″ wide. Cutting 2 widths, I sewed the lengths together matching up the pattern.
Since we chose to leave this shower curtain unlined, I wanted the seam allowance to have a finished look on the back side. (Normally you would cut off the selvage edges but I needed to keep them in place to match upthe pattern. If you don’t have a pattern to match, a french seam would be an alternative. French seam? A lesson for another day!)
I trimmed one side of the seam allowance down to approximately 3/8″. The opposite side was then folded in half, ironed flat, enclosing the 3/8″ side within the fold.
I then topstitched the folded seam in place.
For this shower curtain we added a 1.5″ ruffle across the top out of a contrasting blue accent fabric.
The ruffle was gathered at 2x’s fullness and attached across the top of the curtain beginning 3″ in on each end. (3″=allowance for side hems)
A facing of the same blue was added to finish the back side of the curtain. Facing cut at 4″, sewn to top edge of curtain. 1/2″ turned under on bottom edge and topstitched on place. (The blue fabric was very thin so the white fabric you see under the facing is a backing to add strength and body. I used a medium weight lining for this backing. Flannel, lining, interfacing, doubling the fabric, etc. can be used)
The side hems are folded over, double 1.5″ hem and topstitched in place. This step could be done with a blind hem stitch if preferred. (Here you can see why the ruffle was attached 3″ in on each side)
This is the front view of the topstitching and ruffle.
The bottom hem was finished with a 4″ double hem topstitched in place. (Again, blind hem stitch could be used.) I forgot to take a picture of this step. I’ve borrowed this photo from Ellen at Nouveaustitch. Go check out her blog for great sewing tips and ideas! She is one talented lady! Thanks, Ellen!
Photo by Ellen at Nouveaustitch
The larger hem shown is the 4″ double hem. The smaller hem shown is the side hem. For this method of hemming, hem the bottom of the curtain first, then sew side seams in place.
Instead of the typical plastic shower rings and metal rod, we chose to install this curtain with a wooden rod and rings. (In this photo, the curtain is hanging in my workroom to show how the rings were attached and spaced. I’ll bring you future photos of the curtain in place after installation.)
You can see what a difference it makes to match up your pattern. Especially on a large floral like this.
This photo shows how the curtain will hang when closed.
This photo is similar to how the curtain will hang when pushed open. Edit: A plastic curtain liner will be installed on a separate rod behind the decorative curtain.
So what do you think? Are you ready to customize something for YOUR home? You can do it!
Until next time!
Shower Curtain Details
width – 60″ wide
length – mount rod at 88″ from floor
to figure width:
60″ wide x 1.5x’s fullness = 90″ Finished Width
90″ + 6 (3″ side hem allowance on each side) = 96″ Cut Width Hint: Sew full widths together first, then cut final width.